Postby Bill Carew » Fri Jun 22, 2012 1:50 am
FWIW, you can also impose rules on your bouting, rendering your bouting closer to alive drilling rather than free play, bridging the gap by eliminating some of the pressure and chaos of free play. For example (assuming you are already drilling effectively, and able to perform your core techniques, guards, blows and parries with excellent form in arranged drills and alive drills):
Free play in slow motion: 25% speed, before slowly increasing the pace to 50%, then 75% etc. Try and keep the form clean. If it gets sloppy at a higher pace, bring the speed down again to regain the form, then begin to speed it up again. This is a great way to warm up and warm down too.
Free play to a set number of blows, before the fencers must withdraw under guard and start again. For example, in the first exchange, each fencer only gets two attacks, then they must withdraw out of distance and begin again. Then increase it to three attacks each etc.
Have each exchange begin with a designated attacker (Silver's agent). This frees up both to focus on either attacking or defending in the first intention, rather than both at once. You can also have each exchange end with a designated attacker - so someone knows they have to land the last blow before the fencers separate.
Insist that a designated defender (Silver's patient agent) must parry the first attack before counterattacking, so that double-time parry and riposte skills are developed prior to trying to master single-time counterattacks with opposition, which are generally more difficult (this depends on your system - something like longsword requires a good mix of double and single-time IMHO).
Designate the type of opening attack that must be used. E.g. the opening attack must be a cut from above, or a thrust from below, or an attack from the right side etc. This allows the attacker to work on a particular type of attack (useful if there are areas of known weakness) and allows the defender to concentrate on a canonical defence to the impending attack, at high intensity.
Give each fencer a set number of attacks, before they must switch to defence. E.g. each fencer can attack twice, then must defend twice, then attack twice more. Vary this, one attack, followed by defence, then attack again. Then three attacks followed by three defences. Then mix it up (agent gets two attacks but only has to defend once, patient agent must defend twice and attack only once).
In most of these cases, it will help to have an independent 3rd person observing and giving verbal guidance to slow things down or gradually speed things up, keep to the rules or vary the rules etc.
If you are a fairly new student (i.e. less than 2 years in) I would also strongly suggest only free playing with much more advanced opponents or an instructor. Two novices free playing is usually going to be a mess (two experts fencing can also be a mess, as matched skill levels can degrade form due to the pressure). A novice and a more experienced fencer can work together, the more experienced fencer holding back just enough to give the novice a challenge without having to overwhelm them as another novice will often feel the need to do.
There are heaps of other things you can do. Basically, keep it simple, reduce the options and complexity, and this will remove some of the random chaos that tends to make free play messy. There is a place for out and out free play with a bare minimum of rules for safety, but in most cases (and for the first several years of most of our fencing careers) there is more value in carefully controlled free play picking up where alive, decision based drilling leaves off.
Most importantly, if you want to retain your form and move within your system, guard yourself against the 'must touch at any cost' mentality. Aim to ensure that your cuts and thrusts are delivered with the kind of form (rather than power) that would be required to finish a fight in earnest with a real weapon, rather than settling for tippy, snippy taps that merely tag the opponent as if the weapon was a light sabre. Be prepared to lose with good form rather than win with poor form.